Juke Goodman fashion illustration collection
Online Access
Available digital items: https://digital.archives.newschool.edu/index.php/Detail/collections/KA0112.
Summary
A collection of eighteen 1940s and 1950s fashion and jewelry illustrations collected by art director Juke Goodman. Artists represented in the collection include René Robert Bouché, Burma Burris, Carl Erickson ("Eric"), Ruth Graftstrom, and Jacqueline Lindner. Goodman served as art director for Saks Fifth Avenue and was a visiting lecturer at Parsons School of Design.
Dates
- 1940-1952, undated
Creator
- Bonwit Teller & Co (Sponsor, Organization)
- Bouché, René, 1905-1963 (Artist, Person)
- Erickson, Carl (Artist, Person)
- Graftstrom, Ruth S. (Artist, Person)
- Lindner, Jacqueline (Artist, Person)
- Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.) (Sponsor, Organization)
Extent
0.1 Cubic Feet (18 illustrations)
Language of Materials
English
Scope and Contents of Collection
The collection consists of eighteen illustrations by commercial artists with whom Juke Goodman presumably worked in his capacity as art director. Many of the drawings appear in New York Art Directors Annuals under his and the illustrators' names. The illustrations are signed by the artists and date from the 1940s into the early 1950s. The latest dated drawing appeared in print in 1952. The drawings by René Robert Bouché are undated.
Conditions Governing Access
Collection is open for research use. Please contact archivist@newschool.edu for appointment.
Use Restrictions
To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the New School Archives. Please contact: archivist@newschool.edu.
Biographical notes
Juke Goodman, the collector of the drawings, served as Saks Fifth Avenue's art director during the 1940s and was a critic and visiting lecturer at Parsons School of Design from 1949 until 1952. New York Art Directors Club publications of the 1940s and early 1950s indicate he worked directly with many of the artists represented in his collection on print advertising for Saks merchandise.
René Robert Bouché was born in Prague, but spent much of his professional career in France. He was widely associated with French Vogue magazine, for which he contributed fashion illustrations until 1941, when he immigrated to the United States. Bouché continued contributing to American Vogue, in addition to illustrating advertisements for Saks Fifth Avenue and CBS. He was also a sought-after portraitist. René Robert Bouché died in England in 1963.
Burma Burris (also known as Burmah Hall Burris, 1910-2007) was an illustrator of humorous, cartoon-like fashion illustrations for Saks Fifth Avenue. She also illustrated children's books and taught at the High School of Art and Design in New York during the 1960s and 1970s.
Carl Erickson (1891-1958), who signed his work "Eric" was a leading fashion illustrator whose drawings appeared in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, among other publications.
Ruth Sigrid Graftstrom is most widely recognized as an illustrator for American Vogue magazine in the 1930s. She was represented by Leslie Ryecroft and Kay Hughes in the 1940s. Her work and personal history after 1950 is unknown.
Jacqueline E. Lindner was born in Germany as Elsbeth Schulein. While an art student, she met and married her first husband, Richard Lindner, who later immigrated to New York and became a prominent American artist. After the rise of National Socialism in Germany, Jacqueline Lindner moved to France where she worked as a fashion illustrator. She immigrated to the United States in 1941. During her years in the United States, she illustrated for Saks Fifth Avenue and Life magazine. She married a fellow refugee, writer Joseph Bornstein. She died by suicide in October 1952 following her husband's death in June.
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Burma Burris sources: http://www.askart.com/askart/b/burmah_burris/burmah_burris.aspx (accessed August 4, 2010) and John Steptoe Papers finding aid http://www.lib.usm.edu/~degrum/html/research/findaids/DG1168f.html (accessed August 4, 2010)
Jacqueline Lindner sources: Guide to the papers of Joseph Bornstein (accessed August 4, 2010 http://findingaids.cjh.org/?pID=121524) and Tableau de l'homme nue by Sylvie Camet (Editions Complicités, 2005).
Organization and Arrangement
Arranged alphabetically by artist.
Custodial History
Donated to the Fashion Design Department of Parsons School of Design by Juke and Arline Goodman in 1980 and 1982.
Immediate Source of Acquisition
Transferred from the Fashion Design Department to the New School Archives, 2003.
- Art directors (Occupation) Subject Source: Art & Architecture Thesaurus
- Commercial art -- United States (Subject) (Places) Subject Source: Library of Congress Subject Headings
- Drawings (Type of Material) Subject Source: Art & Architecture Thesaurus
- Fashion drawing (Subject) Subject Source: Library of Congress Subject Headings
- Fashion illustration. (Subject) Subject Source: Art & Architecture Thesaurus
- Fashion illustrations (layout features) (Type of Material) Subject Source: Art & Architecture Thesaurus
- Fashion illustrators (Occupation) Subject Source: Art & Architecture Thesaurus
- Jewelry (Subject) Subject Source: Library of Congress Subject Headings
- Women's clothing (Subject) Subject Source: Library of Congress Subject Headings
- Title
- Guide to the Juke Goodman fashion illustration collection
- Status
- Completed
- Author
- New School Archives and Special Collections Staff
- Date
- September 15, 2010
- Description rules
- Describing Archives: A Content Standard
- Language of description
- English
- Script of description
- Latin
- Language of description note
- English